It is important to consider the texture of the hair before perming.

There is 3 types of hair texture:

-Fine
-Medium
-Coarse

Fine hair will curl more easily, so you will need to use a weaker perm lotion.

Use a normal strength perm lotion for medium texture hair.

If the hair is coarser, it can be more difficult to curl. You will need a stronger perm lotion.

Hair texture is also the same as hair thickness.

It is essential to find out your clients treatment history before choosing the suitable perm lotion.

If the client has had no chemicals on the hair then the hair is known as ‘Virgin’ hair.

This will make the hair more resistant to perming.

It will need a stronger perm lotion.

If the hair has been coloured or bleached then this will make the hair more porous.

The hair will absorb the perm lotion quickly.

Understanding the clients treatment history will help you choose the correct perm lotion to use.

Want to watch videos on exactly how to perm hair?

If so CLICK HERE

You will need to consider certain aspects of the hair before you start to perm the hair.

Today we will talk about Hair Porosity.

Hair porosity refers to the hair’s ability to absorb moisture or liquids.

Hair that is porous can absorb perm lotion very quickly.

Hair that isn’t very porous will not absorb chemicals very quickly.

Below is a basic video on how to do a porosity test.

If the client has porous hair then the length of the hair will have an uneven porosity.

You will need to level out the porosity before applying perm lotion. This will help the hair to absorb the perm lotion at the same rate, ensuring the perm doesn’t over process in different areas.

To level out the porosity you will need to use a pre-perming treatment before winding the hair.

If a client wanted a perm and colour at the same time, which one should you do first?

I would recommend to have the perm first.

If you had the colour first and then the perm, the neutraliser would lighten or fade the colour.

So always perm the hair first.

After rinsing the hair you will now need to apply an anti-oxidant conditioner.

This will stop any chemicals left working any further and return the hair to it’s natural pH value of 4.5-5.5.

Gently massage into the hair then remove by rinsing.

You have now completed the neutralising process.

Watch the videos at http://howtopermhair.com/salespage

The second application of the neutraliser will take around 5 minutes.

After this time, you will need to thoroughly rinse the neutraliser off.

This is important because if the neutraliser is still on it may carry on working, and will affect the success of the perm.

The next step will be to remove all the curlers.

You should only do this after the time for the first application of the neutraliser has completed.

Gently unwind each curler, one at a time.

After all the curlers have been removed, we then apply the second application of neutraliser.

Again this should be left on for around 5 minutes, however always check with the manufacturer’s instructions.

Be careful if the sponges are too drenched, as the neutraliser may drip down the client’s face.

If this occurs, you should rinse the eyes with cold water.

After completing the first application of the neutraliser, you will need to record how long it stays on the hair.

Usually it’s for 5 minutes, however always read the manufacturer’s instructions.

If you rush the neutraliser, it may result in straight pieces of hair.

If it’s left on too long, this may result in over processing which can result into hair frizz.

After you have finished blotting, you are now ready to apply the neutraliser.

Always read the manufacturer’s instructions, as this will tell you to either apply the neutraliser from the bottle or to tip it into a bowl, foam up and apply to the hair using a sponge.

Apply the neutraliser to each perm curler. It’s essential not to miss any of the perm curlers as this will result in straight pieces of hair.

After rinsing for at least 5 minutes, you will now need to gently blot the hair with a dry towel.

Use a second towel if needed to blot the hair.

The reason to blot the hair is to remove any excess moisture, which could dilute the strength of the neutraliser.